 The West Buttress of Denali is the most popular
big mountain climbing route in all of Alaska. Of the 1,000 to 1,300 climbers
that attempt Denali each season, 85 percent head for the West Buttress. Roughly
half of them stand on the summit. The route is internationally famous as
well. Each year hundreds of climbers come from around the world to attempt this
Alaskan giant. Despite the inherent crowds, all climbers will find the West
Buttress to be one of the most beautiful and scenic places imaginable. From the
wide expanse of the Kahiltna Glacier, to the extensive views of the surrounding
peaks and the unending view of the tundra to the north, the West Buttress is an
outstanding climb and grand achievement for anyone.
Want
a virtual climb Denali? You can in this feature from the PBS television show
NOVA.
Climbing the West Buttress route starts by
flying on to the Kahiltna Glacier at 7,200 ft. Climbers usually gear up and head
for Camp 1 at 7,800 ft. Camp 2 is often made at 11,000 ft, however, sometimes
Camp 2 is made at about 9,700 ft. The bulk of your time on Denali is spent at
the 14,000 ft Camp. After at least a day or two at 14,000 ft, a carry of gear is
made up the Headwall (the steepest part of the climb) to either 16,200 ft or to
High Camp at 17,200 ft. When a good weather window of 2-3 days is forecast, you
move from 14,000 ft to High Camp. The summit attempt takes place from 17,200 ft.
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